Why 'man in a skirt' outfits typically don't work
Judging from the pictures one finds online if you google 'man wearing a skirt', many men's first time trying a skirt involves substituteing their trousers or shorts for the skirt, changing nothing else.
Invariably, outfits assembled in this way look awkward, yet it may be hard to pinpoint why. One may assume that skirts just can not look good on a male body, but the problem is actually the approach.
Like all visual arts, outfit styling depends on some core rules. Garments must have proportions and lines that work together, and the outfit as a whole must work harmoniously with the body within it.
A lot of men's skirt outfits look awkward, because haphazardly substituting pants for a skirt, almost always leads to outfits thar break those rules.
Why skirted male outfits generally don't work
Men intuitively wear skirts too low on the body
The 'waist' is the narrowest part of the torso. It is clearly visible in most young men and women. Typically it is slightly above the navel, though is generally higher on the body for women than men.
The 'waistband' of most men's trousers produced today does not sit at the waist, but lower on the body around the middle of the hips.
Many men who try wearing a skirt intuitively wear the garment at the trouser waist. Wearing a skirt that low tends to create an optical illusion that makes the person's legs look shorter than they are, creating an awkward or top-heavy appearance.
How to fix it: raise the waistline
I would reccomend that people who are new to skirts wear them at the natural waist, at or slightly above the navel. This is where kilts are traditionally worn, and there are many kilt wearing tutorials that show where this is on the body.
Wearing skirts at the natural waist is not a set in stone rule. Where to place the waistline depends on the length of the skirt, and the proportions this creates within the whole outfit, this will be discussed later.
Moving the waistline up or down will not make you look femanine.
I have encountered various concerns raised by men online that moving the waistline higher will make them look femanine.
This concern is ungrounded. Men's Kilts are almost always worn at the natural waist. If you look up pictures of army pipe bands, i doubt they look remotely femanine to you.
Male and female bodies are not the same shape, and people largely read the sex of a person from their body and face shape, not clothing.
Most menswear tops are too long to pair with skirts
A critical aspect of styling outfits is balancing proportions between the top and bottom. People generally like proportions that fall into a simple mathmatical ratio like 1:1, 1:2 or 1:3.
Most menswear tops today have a length designed to split the body into two equal sections when paired with full length trousers. The top half takes half the height of the person, and the bottom takes the other half.
Tops of this length can pair well with ankle or floor length skirts because the relative proportions remain the same. Howeaver, they don't pair well with shorter skirts.
Pairing a typical length menswear top garment that is untucked, with a knee length or shorter skirt splits the body awkwardly. The length of the top covers much of the length of the skirt, and is dominant within the outfit.
As men typically already have substantial mass in their torsoes, with broad shoulders, it creates an outfit that looks top-heavy in an awkward way.
How to fix it: tuck in or crop your top
The length of your top needs to change depending on the length of the skirt you are wearing. This can be done in 3 ways:
- Tuck in your top. Doing this shortens the length of the top portion of the outfit to where the skirt waistband is. You can raise or lower where the waistband is on your body to make small proportional adjustments.
- Crop / cut your top. Wearing a shorter top garment allows it to be worn on top of lower body garments without swamping them. Crop top does not mean so short that it shows skin. Depending on where it is cut, you can create different proportions.
- lower the neckline on your top. Wearing a top with a lower-cut neckline also reduces the apparrent size of the top of your outfit.
As noted, people tend to find things attractive when they have certain proportions. There are several ways of approaching this.
- Top and bottom with equal length. Long skirts pair well with longer tops. Typical length mens tops result in a 1:1 split. Wearing shorter skirts with shorter tops maintains the same proportional relationship.
- Bottom twice as long as the top. With longer skirts, cropping the top produces a one third, two thirds relationship which makes the legs look longer.
Kilt jackets provide a good example of how shorter tops look on men. They are cut shoter than typical suit jackets, typically producing a 1 to 1 proportanal balance with the kilt.
For more examples of proportional balance in play you can look at how women style skirts, they vary the length of their top as needed to create the proportions they want in an outfit.
Women's clothing departments include garments of different lengths, so that they have the needed options to do this. Menswear desperately needs more varied top garments for the same reason.
In the meantime, cropping a top is easy, and learning to do so massively expands your options.
Another hack is to utilise colour blocking. When different parts of an outfit have different colours, they read as a single part. For example you can wear leggings or tights that are the same colour as the skirt, which unifies the bottom of the outfit into a single block.
Boxy cut tops create a 'straight up and down' visual line that clashes with flared skirts.
A shilluette is the outline of a shape, and the eye will tend to follow the lines of this shape. For example a typical rectangular cut men's shirt will guide the eye to follow a straight line up and down.
Outfits work best when the shilluettes of the different elements speak the same language. For this reason, a straight skirt like a sarong can pair well with the shilluette lines created by the boxy cut of most menswear tops. The shilluette of the skirt and top both lead the eye in an up / down direction.
Howeaver, a straight cut top paired with a flared / A-line skirt looks clashy to me. You get a harsh angle where the top and bottom of the outfit intersect.
How to fix it: wear tops that have shaping in the side seams.
A-line skirts pair better with with fitted tops that have a curved shaping in their side seams. The curved line then gently guides the eye into the flare of the skirt.
Women often wear boxy tshirts with skirts, why doesn't this work on men?
Male and female bodies on avarage are not the same shape. Female bodies are typically shaped like an A, wider in the hips with narrower shoulders.
When a woman wears a boxy cut top, the fabric drapes over and takes on the shape of the body beneath it. Due to the shape of the body, this creates a flared shilluette that leads the eye into the flare of a skirt.
It is not possible to copy woman's styling directly onto most male bodies, the result will not look the same.
Many skirts have female body curves embedded in their design.
Having been culturally viewed as female attire, most skirts avalible are shaped to fit around, and / or emphisize female body curves.
When a man wears those garments, the garments then shape the shilluette of the outfit. This can look very strange, because the shape of the skirt clashes with the expected shape of the male body.
How to fix it
One needs to pay attention to how a garment is shaped in the waist and hip area, and ensure this makes sense for their body shape.
A traditional scottish man's kilt, and a and straight skirt designed for a woman are shaped differently.
- The kilt flares liniarly from the waist to the hips and down.
- The top part of the woman's skirt will have a pronounced curve in the shilluette between the waist and hips, hanging straight below this point.
- Anything that is tailored or fitted, such as pencil and A line skirts, will have a female body curve in their construction. The strength of the curve will vary, because some women are straigher in shilluette than others. Most of these will look strange on men, but some may be passable.
- Skirts that are made from a gathered rectangle with an elasticated waist will generally work on men, as long as the ammount of gathering is not adding too much bulk to the hips.
If one is making their own garments it is straightforward to compensate for this. Skirts which are produced with a male body in mind, such as those from 'skirtcraft', will also have made appropriate choices here.
Unfortunately, the majority of skirts being produced at this time are made with women in mind, and a lot of care is needed to find garments that work well.
Finding garments that work would be much easier if garmens were made and sold targeting men.
Menswear and womanswear garments use different types of fabric, prints, and colours that often don't pair well.
Because men wearing skirts are currently primerily wearing garments made for women, they are combining men's and womans fashion design.
Mens clothes are typically made with stiff fabrics, with little to no detailing or ruffiles, and have muted solid colours.
Womans clothes are typically made with thin, drapy flowy and often shiny or textured fabrics. They often include ruffles and other details, bright colours and loud prints.
These often do not pair well.
How to fix it.
You need to be a lot more selective when choosing garments. If pairing with menswesr tops, look for skirts in stiff fabrics and muted colours.
If one is wearing a ruffly skirt, change out top garments to ones with ruffles and other details, as they will generally pair better.
Avoid strong colour contrasts, or learn about colour theory and how to combine colours within an outfit. Colour and pattern mixing are artforms in their own right.
Extremely baggy and unfitted garments obscure the body shape
Most menswear upper body garments are basically completely unfitted to the body. This hides and obscures the shape of the body. Skirts also do a great job of hiding the innate shape of the body. The comination then results in an outfit looking like a shapeless blob.
How to fix it
For an outfit to be flattering means that there is harmony between the individual garments in the outfit, as well as between the garments and the body.
Instead, pair skirts with fitted tops or tops with shaping in the side seams. This creates a 'small top, large bottom' contrast within the shape of an outfit.
Oversised garments can work if they are tucked in at the waistband and allowed to blouse. 'Blouse' besides meaning 'a woman's shirt', also means to puff. A shirt puffing out at the waist.
Oversized tops can also work if they are long and flared. This creates a 'dress oved skirt' shilluette.
Closing notes: it is important to style outfits to work as a whole.
Men who try wearing a skirt for the first time often end up with outfits that look awkward, because they are not considering the balance of the whole outfit.
The majority of menswear garments avalible are designed to work harmoniously around an outfit using long trousers. While a long straight skirt can also pair well with menswear tops, most skirts do not.
Skirts and trousers read very differently when one views an outfit. Skirts push the viewer's eye to the shilluette of the outfit as a whole, if the proportions of that look bad, the whole outfit will.
Making skirt-based outfits look good on a male body generally requires changeing everything one is wearing. Different skirts pair with different tops.
Doing this will result in outfits that look distinct from common menswear, howeaver they will not read as broken, weird, or stand out anywhere near as much as an outfit that was built haphazardly.
There are many examples of unusual male attire within films and video games, they don't read as 'weird' because they were styled as a whole.
I hope that these ideas become more widely known, and that there are more 'man in a skirt' outfits that look good instead of broken.